What happens when you find yourself back in the city for the nth time but you’ve outgrown the kick that accompanies the sighting of the most outrageous looking gothic lolitas amongst a sea of cosplayers on a Sunday afternoon in Harajuku? Or when the neon signs of seedy East Shinjuku don’t quite seem to excite anymore and you’re just about done struggling to wake up in the wee hours for a glimpse of the auction that goes on inside the world’s largest wholesale fish market?
Two stops away from Tameike-Sanno station on the Namboku Line lies the upmarket area of Azabu Juban. Home to several foreign embassies and consulates, it is an upscale residential district where well-heeled locals rub shoulders with its sizeable expatriate community. A charming neighbourhood with an interesting shopping strip comprising a good mix of Japanese and western shops and restaurants– undoubtedly a byproduct of its demographic makeup– it is small in comparison to many of Tokyo’s trendy shopping districts.
The tree-lined streets flanked by planters with pretty flowers and the cobbled walkways dotted with cosy cafes and French bakeries transport one to a European small town; turn into one of the many side lanes and you’d be greeted by mom-and-pop shops selling traditional Japanese furniture, hardware store, textiles, wagashi or Japanese sweets. Locals can be heard exchanging greetings on the street while mothers with strollers and bicycles with baby seats are everywhere. I couldn’t quite recall seeing that many interracial children out and about anywhere else in Japan than here.
The relaxed residential vibe provided a welcoming change from the usual bright lights and harried crowds. And a most leisurely and enjoyable afternoon was had browsing through magazines in a little bookstore, window shopping and well, pigging out by my own.
Nothing spells summer in Japan more than a bowl of icy, cold kakigori –Japanese style ice-kacang of shaved ice flavoured with syrup. What luck that I ran into KOOTS, one of my favourites whenever I need a green tea fix. The matcha ice cream is simply to die for!
Parted with ¥137 for a packet of this from an old senbei establishment which tasted disappointingly normal. On the other hand, the ¥150 for the taiyaki was worth every penny. Unlike many of these Japanese fish-shaped pancake that taste awfully doughy and cloyingly sweet, this is chewy and almost mochi like. It wasn’t until later that I learned, out of sheer luck, that I had walked right into the shop that baked the first Taiyaki in the country: Naniwaya Souhonten (浪花家総本店). The place that started it all in 1909. なるほど。
Two thumbs up for the 5 course dinner at 鉄板じゃけ もり.
what a nice time you are having there, i’m so envious :) craving for jap desserts…
gorgeous pics as usual. I really need to go to Japan soon!
ah…thanks for the compliment ;p i’ve been taking too many pics for my own good. will take ages to just go through them. yes, u really need to go Japan soon…with me! haha !:D
interestingly, my friend just put on her facebook status that she misses her old neighborhood, Azabu -Juban. Today! How small is the world!
what a coincidence. sometimes the strangest thing happened huh. and yes, personally, i find Azabu Juban a much nicer neighbourhood than Roppongi, another popular expat enclave inside tokyo city centre.